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Mozambique

For 17 years Mozambique was all but paralyzed in the grip of civil war that ended in 1992. Although the fighting is over, Mozambique is still a desperately poor country, but one whose people are generous and open.

The beaches are the best on the whole east coast of Africa and a few southern resorts are again filled with fun and sun seekers. Further north - in the area neighbouring Malawi - the roads are bad and other facilities haphazard, so travel here is for the more adventurous. Wherever you go in Mozambique it’s fascinating and well worth the time.

Mozambique borders Tanzania to the north, Zambia and Malawi to the northwest, Zimbabwe to the west, and South Africa and Swaziland to the southwest. To the east lies the Indian Ocean and a coastline of nearly 2500km (1550 miles) with beaches bordered by lagoons, coral reefs and strings of islands.

Behind the coastline, a vast low plateau rising towards mountains in the west and north accounts for nearly half the area of Mozambique. The landscape of the plateau is savannah - more or less dry and open woodlands with tracts of short grass steppe. The western and northern highlands are patched with forest.

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Top Highlights

Maputo: Maputo (formerly Lourenço Marques), is one of Africa's most attractive capitals. It's set on a small cliff overlooking Maputo Bay, with wide avenues lined by jacaranda and flame trees, a plethora of pleasant sidewalk cafes and a relaxed atmosphere. For decades, the city's charms were overshadowed, first by colonialism, then by war, and it's only recently that the city has come into its own. Today Maputo is a lively, bustling place with colourful markets, intriguing architecture, a wealth of cultural offerings, and great nightlife.

Pemba: Pemba is a coastal town at the mouth of a huge bay. It boasts some interesting buildings (especially in Baixa - the old town) and a lively atmosphere. Most visitors come for the beaches - particularly Wimbi Beach (sometimes spelt Wimbe) - and the coral reefs. Wimbi is about 5km east of town. The reef is close enough to swim to. A fledgling tourist industry is already transforming the place with bars, restaurants, diving, snorkelling, boating, fishing, etc. The Makonde workshop on the road between town and the beach has good wooden carvings for sale at reasonable prices.

Mozambique Island: Tiny, crescent-shaped Mozambique Island has played a larger-than-life role in East African coastal life over the centuries. Today, it is an intriguing anomaly - part ghost town and part lively fishing community. It's picturesque and pleasant to wander around, with colonnaded archways and stately colonial-era buildings lining the quiet, cobbled streets.

In Makuti Town, with its thatched-roof huts and crush of people, narrow alleyways echo with the sounds of playing children and squawking chickens, while fishermen sit on the sand repairing their long, brightly-coloured nets. The waterfront in between, along the island's eastern edge, is known as the contracosta.

Bazaruto Archipelago National Park: This archipelago consists of five main islands: Bazaruto, Benguera, Magaruque, Santa Carolina and tiny Bangué. It's about as close to a tropical paradise as you'll find, and is one of Mozambique's highlights. Among its attractions: clear, turquoise waters; tranquil, white-sand beaches; a plethora of colourful birds; and rewarding diving and snorkelling. The larger islands were originally connected to the mainland at Ponta São Sebastião. The small population of Nile crocodiles that laze in the sun in remote corners of both Bazaruto and Benguera islands are evidence of this earlier link.

Thanks to this protected status, and to the archipelago's relative isolation from the ravages of war on the mainland, nature bursts forth here in full force. Most impressive, perhaps, are the elusive dugong who spend their days foraging among sea-grass meadows around the archipelago. As a backdrop to all this are extensive and excellently preserved coral formations. Living amidst all the natural beauty are about 3500 Mozambicans who call the archipelago home.

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